The Work of Eden in Buchosa

On Thursday, Peter and I (Tim) went to two villages in the Buchosa district, Busenge and Itabagumba, where we have begun a conservation agriculture project. With delays at the ferry crossing, it took us four and half hours to get there. We arrived in Busenge, a very rural village, clearly far removed from many of the influences of the wider world. Everyone had time and stopped to greet me and chat. When they weren’t talking to me, they all used their tribal language, Kisukumu, as they conversed with one another.

When we begin a new project, we usually have low expectations for the first year. It takes people time to adjust to the new methods of farming. Can they trust us? Will it really work? But I was surprised in Busenge; yes, they were late in planting, but that was more down to the lateness of our seminar than any reluctance on their part! We quizzed the group members to see if they remembered what we had taught. Two grandmothers were able to give the correct answer of spacing of 60cm between maize plants - “It’s two rulers,” they said. We all chuckled when a young man thought his correct 60cm spacing was in fact 25cm! One Bibi (grandmother) had surrounded her shamba with a fence to keep the livestock out, which in our experience is rare. 

Bibi in her fenced shamba

Pastor John in his shamba

Later, as we met with some of the participants we talked about how God put Adam “in the Garden of Eden to work it and take care of it.” When we discussed whether we do both of these responsibilities, the answer came back unanimously, “No, just the first one, to work the soil.” We usually ignore the second, to care for it, which explains why crop yields are falling year by year, as the soil progressively deteriorates. We were able to remind the participants the purpose of the conservation agriculture training groups is to teach people to do both of these responsibilities. We emphasize the importance of the second responsibility, done through enriching the soil, covering the soil, planting nitrogen-fixing crops, using agroforestry, crop rotation and as I added, putting a fence in place as Bibi did. No, we cannot just say it’s bad luck the animals came in and ate the crops!

As we turned to leave we were called by the pastor to have chai first. His heavily pregnant wife had made a nice breakfast. The Sukuma tribe are well known for their generous hospitality. We then went on the second village, Itabagumba, arriving only 2 hours late!

We were late but so were the villagers. While we waiting for them to come, we walked with the pastor, Simeon to his house. Simeon is also the Bishop of the West Mwanza Diocese, a wonderful man with a kind heart. After inheriting this land from his father, he returned to the village a few years ago after a successful career as an engineer in Dar es Salaam. As we approached his place, I was stunned! While only a few hundred metres away was poor sandy dry soil, here, this part of creation had been beautifully cared for. Banana trees, papaya trees, mango trees, pineapples and other plants in wonderful biodiversity, making the most of the rich moist fertile soil.

Bishop Simeon with Peter in his shamba

There was also this delicious mystery fruit that we don’t know the name of!

Anyone know?

When we saw his extremely healthy maize planted amongst the trees, we asked him if he had put manure in the ground. He hadn’t as he said the soil was already enriched enough. The shamba had been looked after so well for many years that it was now supporting and caring for itself. It was an excellent example of permaculture. Everywhere in the Mwanza Region we see the destruction of the environment, particularly with the cutting of trees. But here I was reminded that if we fulfil those two responsibilities God has given us, his creation can become abundant and fruitful again and we can enjoy its fruits. And talking of fruits, Simeon sent me home with two loaded bags of mangos, pineapples and mystery fruit!

Bishop Simeon in his maize

Try Not to Push!

Oh my, what a day! I am still recovering!

It began quite normally. I was with all the mamas at the workshop at 8am and we were pushing hard to prepare more products for the Pasha Christmas Craft Market this Saturday. There was the usual bustle of activity with candle-making, sewing, making beeswraps, beeswax body balms and lotion bars! We always manage to produce a lot ... but today produced rather significantly more!

Mama Zuena was making candles. At one point I looked at her and she looked a little pained while frozen in position. A little later, at 10:45am she went outside. I followed. She told me she was "feeling bad" which was code for "I'm in labour" (one doesn't discuss pregnancy and childbirth here in Tanzania). She said she was fine and in a little bit she would go home to wait and fetch a bag of clothes for the hospital. It didn't sound too urgent and I told her when she was ready, I would give her lift in the Landcruiser.

I went back inside to continue cutting beeswraps. But eying Zuena, it seemed contractions were coming on rather quickly. I suggested maybe we should go straight to the hospital. But she really wanted to pass by her home (in the opposite direction to the hospital) to collect her bag. But then she was doubled over in pain again and so I suggested her daughter bring her bag from home to us and then we go together to hospital. More cries of pain. Then … I said we should forget the bag.

We were going now! I helped her into the back of the Landcruiser and called to Rose to hurry away from the neem balms and hop in fast. As the guard ever so slowly came to ever so slowly open the gate, Zuena was on the floor of the Landcruiser with full cries and moans of labour. I drove as gently as I could, as quickly as I could down the terribly pot-holed, bumpy road. We were all praying hard and loud. Zuena was praying loudly in between cries, asking that God would open the way for the baby … I was praying earnestly that God would keep it closed for just a bit longer. We had to get across town and I stepped on it. Zuena's waters broke and she was in full blown labour! In a rather futile but desperate attempt, I told Zuena to hold on and try not to push.  As traffic slowed at the lights and the cries intensified, I was wondering if I should be pulling over and simply terrified that Rose and I were going to have to deliver this baby on the side of the road! We kept praying!

We made it to the hospital. I flew into the emergency department and we got Zuena to the labour ward. She didn't even have time to go to the delivery area… she just had that baby right there by the computer at reception! At 11:35, fifteen minutes after arriving, Zuena was holding a beautiful baby girl!

I found it rather hard that we were not allowed to stay with Zuena! I managed to sneak a photo very quickly before I left the hospital. But really the "important" role of labour supporter was sorting out the forms and payment … and that took an hour and half longer than it took to have the baby!

A beautiful baby girl

A Mother's Love

The baby, weighing 3.3kg, is doing well. Zuena is struggling a little with high blood pressure. She has diabetes (another reason I was terrified to deliver her baby in the Landcrusier on the side of the road). But she is being monitored and doing well and she should be able to go home tomorrow! And now my own stomach is starting to untangle its own knots … and the high adrenaline slowly calming down!

Rose and I returned to the workshop where all the mamas were delighted to hear the news and see the photo of the new baby on my phone! And we carried on with all the candle-making, balm making and beeswrap making! All rather surreal! All in a day's work! What an absolute privilege it is to share life in so many beautiful ways with these amazing women!

Enjoying the work after the good news!

Update! I didn't publish last night as I wanted to get Zuena's permission first! I went back to the hospital today with Rose, Saidati (Zuena's eldest) and Louisa. Unfortunately Zuena needs to stay in with her high blood pressure. Baby (not yet named!) is doing very well!

Two sisters

A Kambi of Fishermen on Remote Ito Island

Ito Island is a very small and remote island north of Kome Island. Mainly fishermen live there. There is no electricity, no healthcare, there is no school on the island, no church, and very few women and children. 

The red arrow points to Ito Island. Our route is roughly marked in blue!

We went to Ito Island last week, while our cousin visitors had a few days in the Serengeti. We went with Simon and Reuben and Getrude to visit and encourage a pastor called Zakayo who has recently moved there to work with the fishermen. All the houses on the island are very temporary wooden shelters. Zakayo lives in one such shelter, managing a "kambi", a small camp of fishermen and boats in a small sandy bay, along with two women hired to cook for all the men. 

Pastor Zakayo in the brightly colour shirt in his small fishing bay

The fishermen who live there playing cards while 

the two women cook beans in the kitchen shelter behind the boat.

Resting a while at Zakayo's place

Zakayo took us for a walk around the island. It was quite fascinating to see such a completely different environment! The island is a reserved area and there are wonderfully lush jungle-like areas. The surrounding lake is absolutely beautiful. Yet evidence of the rough life of the fishermen is littered everywhere on the ground. There are no markets, but so many small shops who clearly profit only from alcohol. Indeed as one man we met said, the religion on this island is "pombe" (alcohol).

Drink bottles and more littered across the path

Life is clearly raw and tough on this beautiful island. It is very transitory with fishermen following the fish and girls following the fishermen. I chatted to the two women working in Zakayo's kambi. Both of them have children and neither have husbands. Mama Edward travels to visit her three children in Sengerema on the mainland every Monday, returning on Tuesday. The youngest is only five years old. She goes across on a fishing boat to Mchangani on Kome Island every three days to buy supplies of things like oil, rice, beans, sembe flour, tea and sugar. And every day between the two women, they cook two meals a day for the fishermen. I wonder how often they get together with other women. I wonder if and how the young girls with painted faces and non-traditional clothing integrate with them. And I also wonder about the school-age children I see and if they will ever go to school. 

We only stayed the morning as lunch was being prepared for us on Kome Island, so we were soon back on a little fishing boat for the 20 minute ride back (we went prepared with our own life jackets!).

Sitting on the huge pile of fishing nets with Pastor Charles from Kome Island

Louisa leads the way!

We docked at a place called Mchangani which is on the northern point of Kome Island. This is another very remote community, again part of a government reserve where no school-aged children are allowed to live and so there are no schools. Homes are all temporary structures made with wood. Simon was able to check out the latrine pits being dug here at Pastor Charles' church. And we were all able to enjoy a lovely lunch and I think you can guess what it was …. fish!

Wooden houses in Mchangani

Fish drying

It was also good to spend time on Kome Island. We were able to visit three churches that we are working with on the Health and Sanitation project. Getrude is living on the island three out four weeks, working with the women's health groups and Simon is going once a week, particularly to monitor the Clean Latrine project. Large pits are now dug at four churches; Simon has done a great job working with the individual churches to decide on appropriate technology for each and teaching sanitation training seminars with Getrude. Each church with its "demonstration toilet" will be able to reach out to the rest of the community offering help to improve hygiene and sanitation for improved health. It is exciting to see how things are progressing! 

A new church is being planted here in Nyamiswi by Pastor Medard

Pastor David's church in Nyamkolechewa

Here you can see the new building going up around the old one!

And behind the new building ….

The hole was dug rather larger than planned! 

This will be the pit for three toilets planned for the church plot

Simon gives out a sledge hammer head for smashing the rocks for the latrine pit

It was particularly lovely to see Pastor Margaret again! I had not seen her in such a long time! We had connected five years ago on our first visits to Kome and talked about EI partnering with her church. It has been a long time coming, but it is so wonderful to finally be working together! Her church shelter was sadly burned down a few months ago, but thanks to generous friends in London, work has started on a good church building! Foundations are laid! And as we looked at the foundations, it was exciting to know that these physical foundations were symbolic of so much more being laid and of what will be built up!

With Pastor Margaret wearing our exchanged gifts!

The foundations are laid

Brick-making in progress

Impromptu hopscotch, singing and English lessons at the church site attracted rather a crowd!

And here are a few other photos of some of our Lake Victoria travels to Kome and Ito Islands … Over three days we travelled on eight different ferries and boats!

Our journey from the mainland to Kome Island with some cows.

This was our taxi boat from Kome Island to Ito.

On the boat to Ito

It was a bit more of a job climbing into the fishing boat from Ito!

Louisa and Reuben were hoisted in by the fishermen!

This was a very crowded ferry from Kome Island back to the mainland. 

We were packed in next to a HUGE truck piled to the sky with harvested cotton!

We got a bit wet on this one!

Arriving on the mainland as the sun goes down … only one more ferry to go!

Final ferry and its time for bed!

As we were out on the Lake with nets in boats, watching the fishermen mend their nets, standing beside stone fires frying up fish, seeing Zakayo with his kambi of fishermen … it reminded us of Jesus. Going to live and work with fishermen, gathering a kambi of transitory people to be with him. And he taught them. He went with them to take love, healing and forgiveness to the people around them. And from that Lake at Galilee, his message of love, healing and forgiveness travelled the world from that time until today. And so now at this Lake, we pray for Pastor Zakayo as he lives and works with these fishermen. May this kambi also become fishers of men and take the life and message of love, healing and forgiveness to the people on these islands.

Hive Hanging with the Cousins

The cousins arrived on Sunday morning! It was wonderful to see Tim's cousin, Ruth, along with her husband, Chris and their three boys. Yesterday they all joined us as we travelled the bumpy road to Kayenze on the shores of the Lake to meet with the happy beekeepers...

Pendo is delighted with the Kayenze group beeswax!

We began with Tanzanian chai which was either sweet milky spiced tea or sweet ginger tea served with two large chapatis. It was a lovely way to start the day with the group. 

Sharing chai together

It was also an exciting time to be with the group as we celebrated with them their recent honey harvest! It was wonderful that the group was able to finish the harvest completely on their own, and get all the buckets into town to process and sell. [Note to local readers: come quickly if you want to collect some honey; it is disappearing fast!] 

With their wax and honey processed, they have sold their kilos of honey and now used a portion of their profits to purchase three hives to add to their colonised twelve. After chai, Pastor Amon shared about unity and they had a good conversation as a group as to how they can work better together to move forward. Seeing how much they achieved through only four of their twelve hives, they are so aware now of the great potential and very excited about the future!  

Mama Meriziana and William delighted with their honey and beeswax

After chai and all the introductions and the meeting, it was time to head off to Samson's farm to bait and hang the hives. We very quickly had quite an audience!

Amisadai and Scott unload the hives from the roof

A small three-stone fire was started in the shade of the mango tree and pieces of the wax melted down in tin cans to pour into the grooves on the top bars. This will attract the bees to come and start making their honeycomb just where we want them to! It was all hands on to get the 75 top bars baited with the dripping melted wax.

Melting the wax on the three stone fire

Pouring wax into the grooves on the top bars

Then we headed across the shamba (field) to the mango trees to hang the hives. John's enthusiastic tree climbing skills were very useful here! And now we wait for the bees to come and colonise the hives and look forward to future harvests!

John high in the mango tree

We finished off the day with the cousins on the shores of Lake Victoria to kick a ball, play Molkky and watch the sun go down!