Pipes on PikiPikis and all that is Mwanza!

Going from the quiet of isolated living in an English village to the noise and chaos of a Tanzanian city was a refreshing shock to the senses! Suddenly landing in a community of friends, I had more hugs in five minutes than I'd had in four months! It was like waking up from a hazy dream to find myself alive and bustling on the busy Mwanza street! Almost knocked out by the umbrella of the motorbike taxi as he swerved to cut a corner. Almost impaled by the 10-foot pipe sticking out on the back of another bike. Deafened by the truck loudspeakers blaring Tanzanian music as it drove through town with young guys hanging off the back. Friendly bartering and long greetings when shopping, all the while watching where my feet go and dodging moving baskets. Squished in with an uncountable number of sweaty bodies on the dala dala (minibus) from the market. The excitement and unpredictable craziness of everyday life came flooding back and it felt so good! 

It tasted so good! Fresh juicy pineapples and mangos again! Small sweet bananas! I snacked on chapati and maandazi. Mishkkaki and samosas. The mamas prepared ugali and dagaa (tiny fish) for lunch. Rice and beans, tilapia and oh, the huge soft avacaodos! Fresh juice, sweet tea and tamarind ice lollies for 30p! 

Samosas and Maandazi

Mishkkaki (for Louisa!)

Penina and Zuena took me for a vitumbua and pilau picnic
on the rocks to take a break from the Craft Market!

Pilau and a Mama Minja feast!

Ugali and Dagaa

It felt so normal, like I had never left. Like entering a new world and the old one completely disappearing.

It felt like coming home. Only now the home was gone. And that was the strangest thing, and yes, rather sad. 

I did have to laugh, though at how quickly I had forgotten that feeling of helplessness when it seems just everything goes pear-shaped! I soon remembered... 

When I arrived in Tanzania at the beginning of November, it was just days after the election and the country was still in a fair amount of chaos with a complete media and communications lock-down. Oh the issues with trying to connect to the internet! And then the power cuts at inopportune times! 

Then the rains came. We learned the hard way that The Hive shop floods in heavy rain. Lying in bed at night listening to heavy rain, I again had that familiar helpless feeling of internal tension as I wondered what havoc it was wrecking. And then in the Land Cruiser, driving on crazy roads in pelting rain, I had that familiar sinking feeling one gets when one is well and truly stuck in the mud. While the mamas prayed loudly and fervently inside the vehicle, I was out and up to my knees in mud and water to investigate the situation and get the four wheel drive locked. And while the mamas continued to pray loudly, and guys outside pushed, I kicked the trusty Land Cruiser into gear, and off we went! The exhilarating feeling of triumph over the odds! And then the sinking feeling returning when I arrived back, wet and muddy to find the power out and no shower! 

And then there were the simple jobs that get complicated! We had some new shelves made for The Hive. I drew pictures for the carpenter, we measured the space together and wrote everything down, but somehow when the shelves arrived, one was 10cm too long which meant we couldn't shut the front door. A five minute delivery turned into a three hour fixing job! And then we had some brochures printed. I went back twice to collect them after being assured they were ready, but was always told "later" ... finally one day they were there, but had been printed upside down. Back to square one! 

It was wonderful to see good friends again! I stayed with the Guild family for my first week in Mwanza and then the Ewing family for my second week. I was a little disappointed I didn't have more time with them all, as with so much to do I was hardly home! But it was so special to come home to them in the evening! So wonderful to be back with our awesome EI team! And lovely to catch up with other friends over lunch, and a special Diwali  party at Priya's one evening! With a Charity Fair one Saturday at the International School I was able to see many of the girls friends and teachers. And with three Sundays in Tanzania I was able to worship with three churches we have special relationships with! I just cried on the first Sunday... after being in the COVID-restricted UK, it was just amazing to join in with all the enthusiastic singing and energetic dancing! 

Back with the team in the EI Office!

With Bhatendi, Esther and Aikande at BMCC Church

Lunch with these lovely ladies!

A Diwali Party

With the wonderful folks from Mkuyuni Church

Two weeks was not enough in Mwanza! There was a constant sense of urgency and racing the clock (which is not a thing in Tanzania). We didn't get everything done that we wanted to at The Hive ... but we definitely did all we could! I had not had such dirty and tired feet for a long time! I had not felt so exhausted or hot and sweaty for a long time! But breathing in the open space by the lake then listening to the noisy insects and croaking frogs from my bed at night ... and the howling dogs and screeching roosters ... I savoured every minute!

And here to close was my last day in Mwanza. Some of the mamas were at The Hive, others at the workshop. We were packing up products to go to Dar es Salaam and the UK and finished with this special time together! 

I'll take you to Dar es Salaam in the next blog post!

A sad update since the last blog post ... our friend, Jade passed away on Monday afternoon in Nairobi. This is such a devastating shock; please remember Julius and their three boys in your prayers over these difficult days. Also this afternoon was a day to remember Emma, as her family and friends said goodbye. 

And in the midst of the sadness, today we got the keys to our new place in Monkton Combe. It's still empty at the moment, but we can now start to make a home here ...

Is COVID-19 All We Talk About?

So what is happening in Tanzania? Again, it always seems to come back to talking about COVID-19! And it is hard to say here … for several reasons!

But basically, official reports show that the virus has spread from Dar es Salaam into almost all the regions of the country (and unfortunately from here into other neighbouring countries). Tanzania announced last week they would not report on cases and deaths (in order to "focus on the positive" recoveries) but did recently then publish some numbers and it seems evident that numbers of both cases and deaths are rising rapidly. There are rumours and stories abounding which I dare not mention here for obvious reasons! Even without a lockdown, the economic effects are becoming more widespread as small businesses close and prices of certain goods rise. We notice here in Mwanza (apart from the obvious loss to hospitality and tourism industries), those catering to students have been hit hard. Mwanza is home to St Augustine University, which along with all schools and colleges in the country, has closed. But increasingly now, as more and more people avoid town, more and more businesses are struggling.

In the surrounding villages, we are very aware of the lack of information reaching people about COVID-19. And so we continue to do all we can to help prevent the spread of coronavirus in these more rural areas, which have such limited access to healthcare. Our team has been working hard with the generous funds people have donated, to get handwashing buckets with posters and soaps distributed through our partner churches. We have also put together a pamphlet on "Corona and Faith" and have distributed 10,000 copies to 350 churches in this area. You can watch a little video on all the action here!



It is such a privilege to partner with the church and at difficult times like this, particularly so! The pastors we work with have been thrilled to get the materials and keen to play their part in safely sharing the teaching and materials with others. To see the church at the forefront serving their communities is fantastic. Missional living! The fact is that little is known about COVID-19 in many of these places, and there is a lot of misguided information confusing things as well! But look at Theopister in the video, teaching in Igombe (where she and Laura have been working with the Girls Health Project)! They are making sure everyone social distances and washes hands and that all get a thorough teaching on COVID and prevention!

Please pray for us as the situation unfolds here in Tanzania. We want to help and serve in the safest and most effective way we can, supporting the groups and villages we are already working with and helping our partner churches to reach out to local communities. Peter remains in contact with our farmers groups; with the terribly heavy rains and floods ongoing, many farmers who recently planted, have lost that harvest. Bhatendi remains in contact with all our beekeepers and we are a little worried about how the long heavy rains will have affected the honey harvest, scheduled around now. The Kayenze group is hoping to harvest some honey this week … they are on their own and we pray they will be successful.

Meanwhile, in town, it is now mandatory in many places to wear a face mask, so demand stays high for masks! I have been persevering with mass mask production with Laurensia, Jeni and Saidati! They are making a variety of colours with a choice of elastic or adjustable ties. As well as keeping up with local orders, we are trying to share the skills of making them with others and also now sewing many for all those in Standing Voice's albinism program.

Saidati models a mask!

Masks freshly washed and hanging to dry in the sun before packaging

To be very honest, I am feeling like a lot of this all looks great in a blog .. (and yes, there are many great things to be thankful for!) but actually I must confess that it has not been an easy time... and it doesn't all revolve around coronavirus! It has been rather a stressful and busy time trying to secure a rental property for The Hive, which has involved jumping numerous hurdles and crying over numerous setbacks; it has been both time consuming and super discouraging over recent weeks. But we are praying for all to be agreed in time for the Kayenze beekeepers to process their honey! I have been working with Aikande on the handover for the Mamas group, which is difficult as we are not able to meet as a group. And all this happening as we thought we were leaving the country in just under 2 months! How does one even begin to think about reducing the whole contents of a house into 8 bags at a time like this? There is literally no time ... or head space right now. And no one likes the thought of leaving without being able to say goodbye. There are just so many unknowns…  I think I may be rambling into another post here! But all to say, it's a lesson in faith... and patience!

And so to finish (…and to prove that we don't only talk about COVID19!) here are some photos of the 14th birthday celebrations for Louisa last week! It was without cards and gifts and friends in person, but we had so much fun at home, enjoying yummy food and fun games! Amisadai put a video together of friends from all over the world wishing her a happy birthday and I was crying, listening to all the lovely kind words from special friends! What a delight this girl is! We are so thankful for her! She has been busy recently… helping the mamas businesses by riding her bike around the neighbourhood taking deliveries of sales of face masks, moringa powder and soaps!

Cinnamon buns for breakfast!

Yummy bites for tea

By special request: "Dairy Queen Ice Cream Cake"

Happy Birthday Louisa!

In Shaddai's Shadow

You who sit down in the High God’s presence,

    spend the night in Shaddai’s shadow,
Say this: “God, you’re my refuge.
    I trust in you and I’m safe!”

These words (and more following) were sent to us in the hospital by a friend during this rather traumatic week and we have been repeating this poet's words!

Amisadai's name comes from the Hebrew, Ammishadai, or Ammi' (meaning people/kinsmen/kindred) of Shaddai (the Almighty). And on Wednesday night, these words of spending the night in Shaddai's shadow and saying "I'm safe!" became particularly real for us!

On Wednesday, I was in a Mwanza hospital with Amisadai, who was in so much pain, trying to turn away from the blood-stained walls, the needles in her arm, the uncertainty of all that was happening so quickly, and fear of what the next day might bring. And yet, in this hospital, in the darkness, with power cutting on and off as a huge thunderstorm storm raged behind the mosquito mesh on the window, we were in Shaddai's shadow and He was our refuge.

Let me go back a little … As I blogged in the last post, as coronavirus arrived in Tanzania, Amisadai was just arriving back with Tim from Kenya after having knee surgery to reconstruct a new ACL from tendons in her hamstring. All had been progressing very well with pain decreasing and mobility improving… until last Friday when she began to feel increasing pain in her knee. The pain became steadily worse and by Monday, even on the strong pain killers, she was in so much pain, her temperature had gone up and we were concerned about infection in the graft. We are so incredibly thankful for a good friend here who is a doctor and he was able to get her on antibiotics and put us in touch with an orthopaedic surgeon here in Mwanza. We were also in contact with her surgeon from Nairobi, but with Coronavirus, all borders were closing and flights halted. It was difficult to know what to do. 

One thing coronavirus is doing right now across the western world is shake people's certainty of what is in their control and what is safe. Living in a different culture to our own, we actually feel we made the personal choice to lose a sense of that certainty when we moved here! And we don't have our own certainty about very much most of the time ... and are pretty ok with that! But here this week, COVID19 still managed to shake that little piece of security that was in the thought that we could always just go somewhere... a Nairobi hospital, or UK or Canada. But now we couldn't ... or even if we could manage to get to another hospital in another country, we knew the chances of getting back home to Tanzania was very unlikely until coronavirus lock-downs were relaxed. So where is our certainty? Where is our refuge?

After a fluid aspiration at the hospital on Tuesday and Amisadai's pain and sickness worsening with a temperature, on Wednesday we admitted her to the hospital to get her straight on IV antibiotics. From the moment Amisadai was carried up a long flight of stairs in a wheelchair by three men (no elevators!), we realised that this was a very different experience to all previous hospital experiences! Here in Tanzania, the relatives or friends of the patient must meet all personal needs … so we came prepared with plenty of water, soap and of course the now legendary COVID19  toilet paper! I had grabbed some plain biscuits and a bar of our rationed chocolate (as I didn't expect Tim to bring us chai and chapatis the next morning) and plenty of khangas for our beds or drying ourselves or any of the million things a khanga is always useful for!

Getting around was not easy!

Thursday was the hardest day. We had so many doctors and nurses coming through; I think we counted 28 different medical staff asking us the same questions and the confusion was rather overwhelming. We read Psalm 91 several times throughout the day, as there were more blood tests, as we waited for synovial fluid and blood culture results, as Amisadai lay exhausted and vomiting in the pain and nausea. We read it as we waited for ages in an ultrasound room after making the difficult descent back downstairs for another draining for testing of fluid, which then was decided against due to the risk of further infection prodding about in the inflamed knee. Several times nurses came to prepare Amisadai for emergency surgery to open up her knee to drain and clean out the infection. But at the same time, Tim was at home, trying to communicate with our friend Rob in Mwanza, the orthopaedic doctor in Mwanza, our surgeon in Kenya and our insurance company in the UK about what the best option was and where we should be.

We didn't know where we would be at the end of that day. But we knew that Shaddai was our refuge and we were safe to trust Him. We were also reminded of this truth by the prayers and encouraging messages sent to us by so many dear friends from Mwanza and all across the world. And truly He heard our cry!

She tried a tea biscuit for breakfast …! 

Our three tremendous doctors agreed they did not need to proceed with cutting open her knee, which was such a huge answer to prayer! Amisadai stayed on IV antibiotics for three days, but she was released to go home to then return the following day to the hospital for another dose. We now keep close watch as she continues on oral antibiotics as well as strong painkillers and anti-inflammatories. We are just waiting to start her on a course of antibiotics tomorrow to specifically attack the staphylococcus aureus. But it has been wonderful to see her improving so quickly! The swelling is down, her temperature is normal, she is no longer nauseous or in pain. We are so thankful!

Louisa came to support Amisadai for the final IV antibiotics

Often fear, the fear of the unknown, the worry of what might come, the anxiety coming from things being out of our control can be hard to overcome. The fear of septic arthritis and all that could follow was a fear. The feeling of being trapped by borders, the fear of surgery, of confused medications or diagnosis.  And I think fear is so real for so many right now as COVID19 stalks the globe. Health, finances, education … they were all things that seemed so secure in the West, yet now suddenly there is insecurity and uncertainty. There is sickness and death and there is financial stress. But I hope that if you are reading this and feeling a sense of fear or worry, that Psalm 91 would also encourage you as it did for us this week! Certain of one good thing … Shaddai's shadow.

His huge outstretched arms protect you—
    under them you’re perfectly safe;
    his arms fend off all harm.
Fear nothing—not wild wolves in the night,
    not flying arrows in the day,
Not disease that prowls through the darkness,
    not disaster that erupts at high noon.

Psalm 91 (The Message)

What Will You Wear to the Polls?

What are you wearing to vote? This was the question much discussed by all the Mamas at the meeting in the garden this afternoon, a meeting to plan a wedding send-off for Mary. Mary is the eldest daughter in the family that lives on the property with us here. (Incidentally, Mary is marrying our friend from MICC who has been doing carpentry work for us.) While the meeting was to plan the party, it seemed to me it was rather a party in itself, with over twenty women and dishes and dishes of food! And after my full plate of rice and stewed goat earlier for lunch in Kayenze, I confess to struggling a little! But back to the question ...

Mamas tucking in at the planning meeting!

The question was a serious one. And it was one that Pastor Amon also talked about for quite some time in the morning church service in Kayenze. With tensions running high in this election, he advised everyone to wear very neutral clothes to the polls on Sunday. To be safe, people are advised not to wear anything with the colours of either political party. This means no CCM green or yellow. This means no Chadema red, white or blue. So the ladies were looking critically at their clothes, discussing what was a "safe" outfit.

I hope I remember this conversation the next time I start to complain that I don't know what to wear... this puts female "wardrobe woes" into stark perspective.

These colours are "out" ...

Chadema Colours

CCM Colours

I asked some of the mamas if they were afraid to vote in this election. Some said no. Some said "Mungu atasaidia." (God will help us.) All said they were far more afraid about the day the results are announced. But they are all planning to go to vote very early in the morning on Sunday. Before the crowds, or so they hope. All are praying for safety and peace.

Our plan has been to avoid crowds and rallies. But late the previous afternoon, my Upendo wa Mama group turned out to be in the midst of a CCM rally. Rather than take one of the crazy daladalas home (most of them were driving recklessly around with people hanging out waving flags and scarfs and blowing horns), Tim came to pick me up and we went on to collect the girls from friends. We didn't even realise until afterwards that CCM presidential candidate, John Magufuli, was at the centre of all the commotion. We were only 10 minutes from home, but the chaotic crowds were so thick and the traffic so jammed, we were not moving anywhere. We tried to divert through town, but that was even worse. We ended up taking a huge detour out of town and coming back in from another direction. We were very thankful to arrive safely home over an hour later. But that experience definitely convinced us to stay well clear of crowds this week and the week following the election.

As it's election day in Canada, we'll be thinking and praying for you... and wondering what you are wearing to the polls! Here, we will be sure to plan our wardrobes sensibly this week.

Election Fever in Tanzania

LATEST NEWS!
Today, we got caught in the middle of election fever during a quiet cup of coffee after errands in town. As the crowds gathered outside and police and men in black gathered around us inside, we realised the Presidential hopeful had been sleeping upstairs and was about to depart. The noise was unbelievable (see the video clips below!) The crowds were tightly packed on the streets and highly excited, but peaceful. Tim and I waited by the red carpet, and as Lowassa came out, I managed a "Shikamoo" and shook his hand. So, have I shaken hands with the next president of Tanzania?



Tim with Edward Lowassa (right)

Huge crowds gather around Gold Crest Hotel

Lowassa Comes to Mwanza from Rachel Monger on Vimeo.


Lowassa Supporters in Mwanza from Rachel Monger on Vimeo.
(The crowds are shouting "Rais" which is Swahili for "president")

Election fever is rising here in Mwanza as October 25^th approaches! Flags are flying the colours, larger-than-life photos are in your face at every turn and deafening music and chanting voices blare out from speakers balancing with bodies on the back of pick-ups. People are parading with piki-piki cavalcades (motorbikes) and the streets are busier and crazier than ever.



Driving through Mwanza

This 2015 election is a close contest, highly competitive and controversial. It is also a significant political event not just for Tanzania, but also for the watching world.

For the first time since Tanzania gained its independence from Britain over fifty years ago, there is a real possibility that the ruling party which has operated in essentially a one-party system could be ousted by another party. So for the first time in Tanzanian history there are two candidates with a realistic chance of winning.

So who’s up for election? The dominant ruling party, Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM) (Party of the Revolution) has nominated John Magufuli to run, replacing the incumbent president, Jakaya Kikwete, a Muslim who has served 2 five-year terms. Magufuli was an unexpected choice which came about because an expected front-runner, Edward Lowassa, was side-lined in the nominations. Lowassa subsequently defected to the opposition party, Chadema (Party of Democracy and Development). So now the charismatic and popular Lowassa, who also happens to have been an ex-Prime Minister who left in scandal, labelled by some as one of the most corrupt figures in Tanzanian society and others as a scapegoat, runs against Magufuli. Lowassa has unified a confederation (Ukawa) of opposition parties, which has increased his chances of gaining in the race.

And what are they saying? Magufuli, in an effort to look clean and able in comparison to the dirt attached to his opponent and the reputation of his own party, emphasizes he is serious about work and demonstrates his fitness to lead with public press-ups! He says he will address issues of poverty, unemployment, security and corruption. Lowassa, as a popular man for the masses, emphasizes better education for all and promises to revamp Tanzania’s economy and infrastructure. But both candidates seem to be promising what voters want to hear… water, roads, electricity... and I’m not sure either is very convincing.

Since its independence in 1961, Tanzania has been one of the most peaceful countries in Africa. Tanzanians often view themselves as a Tanzanian first and of their tribe second which has contributed to the peaceful nature of the country where different tribes and religions live together in harmony.

But the controversy surrounding this election has led some to feel this peace is threatened. The tight, close race and perception of rigging outcomes (particularly accusations against CCM for replacing the Director of Elections with an easily manipulated novice chief, and consistently obstructing the opposition) has sparked concerns about post-election violence. There was a report last week about the kidnapping and attack of a Chadema MP candidate and we have heard of several occasions in Mwanza where rallies have turned riotous, resulting in a few deaths. Some of the parties are reported to have organized militias which could be mobilized to stir up trouble after the count. Universities and schools are closing and this adds to the fear that young radicals will be looking for trouble on the streets, especially if they feel the count is corrupt. For this reason, a good number of expats are leaving the country for the election, more particularly, for the results announcement 3-4 days following the voting. Embassies are advising people not to travel during this time and to avoid crowds and rallies. We will be lying low at home, avoiding town while being well stocked up on supplies and fuel.

Yet it seems that although most Tanzanians desperately do want change, the majority of Tanzanians value peace too highly to resort to the kind of violence seen elsewhere in African nations. And indeed when Lowassa came to Mwanza on Monday, crowds reported to be as many as 50 000 gathered on the field not far from our house and, from what we have heard, all was peaceful.

We pray and trust that this election will as peaceful as it is interesting. We have an unexpected CCM candidate trying to distance himself from the name of his increasingly unpopular party. And we have a charismatic, wealthy politician trying to make a name for the Chadema party despite the fact that just a few weeks ago he represented the other party. After over fifty years of a single-party government, one that has held a monopoly on power for so long, Tanzanians seem ready for change. Although Lowassa (who appears to be playing the parties for his own gain) may not be the greatest leader for change, if he did manage to win, it would be an amazing demonstration to the watching world of a successful transition of power from one party to another. A rare event in African politics!


Kikwete and Magufuli



Lowassa

I have not included in this post the danger that is posed to people with albinism during the election period. Body parts of people with albinism are in demand for good luck charms and during this electoral period at least 4 have been killed. Pray for the peace and safety of people with albinism as the election draws closer.

This is simply my own interpretation, gleaned from what I have heard in conversation and read during the complicated and rather convoluted build-up to this election! Please post your comments to add or correct anything!

 

Community and Cooking

Community is a wonderful thing. Open doors, helping one another, really knowing one another, sharing "life"... It is something we have experienced in Magozi in a way unlike we have anywhere else. Life is hard, very hard, but the sense of community is strengthened by it. This is not a community that grumbles and complains, moaning together about all that is hard (believe me, they have reason more than most to complain) but a community that cheers one another with a smile and greeting and even a song, and supports one another. So many times, I want to grumble and moan... there's no water, my back aches, we have "nothing" to eat, it's too hot... When these thoughts again went through my head last week, I realised I had not once heard anyone complain or grumble. Not Tumaini ("Hope") who is 8 months pregnant, sick and had to travel to a clinic on the back of a bicycle. Not the 6 year old boy who was hit by a tractor and had to wait until the following day for a lift to get to the hospital to set his broken leg. Not our neighbours who have at least 7 children and need to somehow find enough money to send them school. Not a single girl who has to walk 2 hours to get firewood, or continually be fetching water (we have not had water from the new water system for these two weeks). It's a good place to be!

Digging foundations for the kiln

We are really pleased with all that is happening with our work in Magozi. We arrived for the first real day of stove-making after the previous week of training, and it has been fantastic to see over these past two weeks how quickly the standard of making has improved! We now have about thirty stoves; the group is doing so well! It has been good to see the group really start to take ownership and responsibility for the project. So our role has been very different, as we start to step back; we have been there for quality control and advice. Tim has been meeting with the group chairman and secretary and keeping things on track. They are preparing to build the kiln next week - the foundations have now been dug for that.

Chai break for the stoves group

I have been doing a lot of cooking on the jiko to promote using it! In the stoves group, I  have cooked rice, another day we had chai and bread, and this past week, I cooked up sweet potato and "spinach" cakes for everyone; all about using locally available food to cook with some more variety and nutrition. I have continued to teach about using the haybox cooker. I was really encouraged when a lady in the group invited us round for a meal and cooked us rice in a haybox she had very creatively made with what she had! She was really excited with it and pleased about the firewood and time over the fire she had saved! I have also had a number of ladies round to the house for lessons in making bread and cornbread. I loved feeling like a TV chef for one bread making lesson. I had not long made the dough for a loaf for us, when a lady came round asking to learn how to make bread. So together, we made the dough and set it to rise... and then I was able to whisk out my loaf, now risen ("the one I prepared earlier")... and show her how to cook it on the jiko! She was able to take the baked loaf home and I later cooked the dough we made together!

Another snack break for the group
Sweet potato and spinach cakes

Fresh cornbread

Baked Potatoes - what a treat!

Now we are back in Iringa, after yet another interesting journey, as our brakes gradually ceased to function as we travelled. We were very thankful to make it back home just when we did as it was getting rather dodgy! It was a hole in a pipe which drained all our brake fluid; thankfully now fixed. We are now preparing for a farewell party for Andrew and Miriam to send them on their way back the UK for six months.

Eroded gorges and clutches

Today we explored an eroded valley, a once-upon-a-time lake bed, filled with ancient bones, skeletons and stone-age tools. We walked down through a gorge, the hot sun beating down on the dry, dusty ground and then found ourselves in the shelter of huge, natural columns towering over us. Walking low in the echoing stillness of the rocks and cliffs, we were in the coolness of their shade. The girls ran excitedly looking for "caves" in which to hide, and we saw a fresh meaning to being "in the cleft of the rock"! Each eroded column was as spectacular as the last, and we wondered which would be the next to fall.

We went exporing with Tim's parents and also Laura and her two friends visiting from Canada. The three Canadians were (rather unfortunately for them) loaded in the back of the land cruiser and had more than their share of bumped heads on the bumpy road. After exploring the gorge, things went rather downhill on the way home as the clutch bit the dust ... yet another problem to add to our car saga of starting problems, electrical faults, doors flying open, doors not closing.....! We were stuck 15km from Iringa on the side of the road unable to get in any gear to get home. We texted some SOS's to kind friends and Brad came to the rescue and towed us all the way home with his Nissan Patrol! Thanks, Brad!

Tomorrow we are off to Ruaha National Park (thanks to Andy and Angela who are lending us their Nissan Patrol .. more kind friends!) Amisadai is hoping we find a lion and Louisa is hoping we certainly don't! We are pretty sure we will, but are just convincing Louisa it won't eat us!

But before we go, we have to know, will the Canucks win??? Go Vancouver Canucks Go!

Chickens, food and water!

Yesterday we had the exciting arrival of our chickens! We picked them up yesterday afternoon and are now the proud keepers of nine hens and a cock! The girls are making friends with them and deciding on their names, as given by their friends in England for their past birthdays!  

 We had a great day on Friday. As part of our language training, the four of us went for a day of cooking with other language students, learning how to cook Tanzanian food and learning the Swahili food and cooking vocabulary! We set off at 7:45am, picking up our teachers and live chickens on the way. 

Preparing vegetables, sorting rice

And then we had a busy morning preparing all the food. It is a very time-consuming task here, starting with preparing all the vegetables (outside, without the chopping boards or peelers that we are used to!) Then the chickens had to be slaughtered and plucked, I must admit that neither Tim or I actually took the knife. And then it was all gutting (ew!!) and chopping (nothing is wasted!) and boiling and frying. We hacked open the coconuts (much more pleasant), grated the fruit off and then squeezed all the goodness out for adding to our beans. We kneaded, rolled and fried mandazi (like donuts) and chapattis. We simmered spicy African chai. It was hot work and the flies were everywhere! But we had a feast by 1:30pm! It was well worth all the hard work and time! It was great fun and very good food, but I have to admit I'm not sure how much my Swahili improved!


Tim and our teacher cooking chapattis!

    

Chicken ready to pluck!

This week we have had trouble getting running water. We lost running water on Tuesday and so the following afternoon, rather than wait for the “water officials” to fix the problem, which was just up the road from us, Spedito and Mikdadi thought we could solve the problem much quicker ourselves. We all went to the Kihesa market where a new pipe section was bought. Then they went with their spades and dug up the problem, put the new piece on the pipe, wrapped things up with rubber and buried it all again! And lo and behold, we had running water again! We would never get away with doing this in the UK! We enjoyed the running water long enough to have a shower and refill our buckets. But the next morning (Thursday) the water stopped again! We had further water problems on Friday, which is a whole other story which involved the help of the Sharpes visiting friend, Howard, who happens to be a plumbing expert who looked incredulously into the whole state of affairs while Spedito got very wet!

 

Spedito and Mikdadi working on the pipe!

But we got our water again on Friday afternoon and now appreciate, very much more, our water supply and the great blessing it is to have running water. We were fine, as we had buckets on hand and could buy drinking water, but for so many people here it is a very different story. It is still hard (although a little easier now) to imagine travelling hours each day in the heat with a heavy bucket of water on my head. And seeing how quickly our garden suffered without water, and seeing the dryness of the land at the moment, we see firsthand the reality of the problem for so many people here, and are excited to be here and see the rainwater harvesting projects in action! In Uhambingeto they have almost finished the seventh and final rainwater tank for the secondary school, which means all the tanks will be finished in time to collect the first rain! And what a huge difference that makes for those teachers and children!

Imaginings

I am doing some imagining! I have been reading news from Andy and Angela Sharpe in Tanzania. We will be working with these lovely people in Iringa. They moved from Sussex in February and now give us news of settling in to African life! It has me imagining what life will be like for us in 3 months time!

The dry season has now started and they are not expecting to see rain again until November. Everything will be so dry when we get there in September! And hot ... it is stretching my imagination to feel hot at the moment!

And now as I write my shopping list for Tesco tomorrow, I am imagining my shopping in Iringa! Angela writes that some new shops have just opened - grandly called "trolley shops" as they actually have shopping trolleys (carts)! She thinks this is slightly over the top as the shop is no bigger than their bedroom! She usually gets word from a friend that a pig or some chickens are being slaughtered and is asked if she would like some. A big chunk then arrives in a plastic bag. I can imagine this as long as I'm not responsible for beheading chickens ... But now thinking about pigs and pork, I'm thinking that maybe our homeschooling novel study on Charlotte's Web isn't such a great idea! Milk comes from a cow a few houses away. I can imagine our metal milk churn arriving with milk ready to be boiled and cooled ready for our morning cornflakes! Or maybe we get our own cow?

It's all very hard to imagine really!

Here's a photo of Iringa ... now you have about as much to go on as I do in your own imaginings!

Countdown to Take-off!

With 101 days to go until we fly from London to Dar-es-Salaam, I thought now would be a good time to start a blog! Watch this space!
We have just said goodbye to our Canadian friends after a wonderful visit with family and a good time with friends at the King's Community Church in Langley, British Columbia! And now we're home in the UK to enjoy summer months with more friends and family! Meawhile, we are prioritizing our packing (we've now got 11 bags to fill!), raising funds and support, learning Swahili ...